At a Glance: Cusco, Peru

November

Date: November 14, 2011
Author: Ellen Small Billard
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Its cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, community plazas, myriad museums, bustling local markets, Andean culture, and close proximity to spectacular Inca ruins make Cusco a must-see for any visitor to Peru. In fact, the city is known as Peru’s tourism capital for the throngs of visitors who flock to the region from around the world every year to discover its fascinating history and absorb its rich culture – a blend of colonial Spanish influence and ancient Andean traditions.

Once considered the heart of the Inca Empire, this city of more than 300,000 rests at an altitude of 3350 meters (about 11,000 ft.) between foreboding Andean peaks in the Sacred Valley of the Rio Urubamba. It is the oldest continuously inhabited city in South America, and a significant amount of the population speaks Quechua, the language that was also spoken by the Incas, though most people speak Spanish as well.

Although Cusco usually serves as the starting point for visitors continuing on to Machu Picchu or acclimatizing before trekking the Inca Trail, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is worthy of a visit all on its own. It serves an excellent example of a place that has established itself as a prominent tourist location, but has not lost its historical significance or local charm. You’ll certainly see your fair share of tourists swarming the town, but also you’ll be surrounded by locals wearing traditional clothing and buildings constructed from remnants of Inca-constructed walls. In fact, the city remains a collision between ancient and modern history, a blending of Spanish and indigenous cultures. For example, Catholic cathedrals and monasteries built atop demolished Inca temples and holy sites line the city’s main plazas. Many Andean Peruvians practice syncretism, a blending of Catholic theology with traditional Andean religious beliefs. The Inca ruins at Saqsayhuaman overlooking the city serve as a reminder of Spanish conquest as conquistadors removed a significant number of the granite blocks to build their own homes and buildings.

Inca walls line the alley of Loreto and other pedestrian walkways in Cusco

A Brief History of Cusco

To fully appreciate Cusco today, it is important to understand a bit of its magnificent and tragic history.

Cusco was founded by the first Inca, or “king,” Manco, and became the empire’s capital. Although the Inca civilization existed for several hundred years dating back to the 12^th Century, its greatest expansion occurred in the one hundred years preceding conquest by the invading Spanish conquistadors. Under Inca Pachacutec, the empire expanded its infrastructure and its geographic influence beyond Cusco to southern parts of the Andes near Lake Titicaca. Later, under his son and successor Tupac Yupanqui, the Incas expanded north into modern-day Ecuador and south deep into the region that is now Santiago, Chile.

The Incas began to experience internal conflict, however, when Inca Huayna Capac divided the empire between his two sons. Atahualpa was awarded jurisdiction over the northern portion of the empire, while Huascar was allocated the southern part. Unfortunately, the two brothers were not content to share power with one another. Their discord resulted in an empire-wide civil war that took a significant toll on the population. As a result, when the invading Spaniards arrived, the Incas found themselves more vulnerable to conquest.

A view of Cusco from atop the ruins at Saqsayhuaman

Francisco Pizzaro and the Spanish conquistadors arrived in Cusco in 1533 and established Manco Inca as a “puppet” ruler. This arrangement lasted only a few years, however, before Manco organized a rebellion against the Spanish. He was eventually forced to flee to the jungle city at Vilcabamba and the Spanish were able to re-claim Cusco. They soon shifted their focus from Cusco to the new capital: Lima.

In 1650 and 1950 devastating earthquakes rocked the city and continue to pose a looming threat throughout Peru. Throughout the country, the colonial structures built by the Spanish have not withstood the forces of these quakes nearly as well as the Inca structures have. As a result, many of the colonial buildings have been rebuilt and restored.

After learning about all the physical and emotional reminders of Spanish conquest that mark the streets of Cusco, you may be wondering if there is still a little bitterness existing among Cusco’s residents today toward the Spanish. We wondered this too, but weren’t quite sure how to ask it. After befriending a local woman named Claudia, we felt comfortable asking her. She hesitated, but finally replied, “Well, yes, of course there is still bitterness, if we are being honest. This Spanish church we stand in was built on top of an Inca temple that the Spanish destroyed. But what you also have to remember about Cusco is that so many of us are mestizo — a blending of Quechua and Spanish lineage, a blending of Quechua and Spanish culture. We are both. So even though there’s bitterness, it’s not as simple as one might think.”