Monthly Archives: November 2011

The glass windows. The muffled, but obnoxiously loud voice of the guide echoing over the speaker. The pampered tourists complaining over the slightest discomfort. The large horse fly that seems just as frustrated to be stuck on the bus as you are as he desperately launches himself face-first into a closed window. The bright-colored buses that arrive, queue, and park together like a giant box of Crayola64 on wheels. These are just a few reasons why I particularly dislike the tour bus method of travel.

Now, don’t get me wrong … tour buses have a time and a place. Tour buses can transport you places that would otherwise be difficult, if not impossible, to navigate on your own. Their guides offer you insight to a particular location that greatly aids your visit. For some people, guided tour bus travel is the only option for them, not by choice, but by necessity. And for these reasons, it is very valuable.

But it’s usually not for me.

I feel like I’m visiting a zoo. I feel like I’m in Kindergarten and my teacher is telling me when I can come and go, when I can eat, when I can ask questions. The big, bright bus makes me feel conspicuous, like I’m invading someone’s privacy — or even invading their community.

It just doesn’t feel authentic.

How do I know I am being shown an accurate representation of the country or culture? How do I know this isn’t just the nice part of town? What’s life like for the people who live on the other side of the tracks? Do the locals really shop here? If so, why are there so many souvenir shot glasses and refrigerator magnets?

Although it is not always possible to completely avoid this pit-stop style tourism, it certainly is possible to discover authentic travel and cultural experiences in between visits to “must-see” landmarks and gift shops.

For us, Cusco’s Mercado Central (also known as Mercado San Pedro), proved to be one of those authentic cultural experiences you can only find when you’re willing to step off the usual tourist trail for at least a few minutes.

Mercado Central, or the central market, was located just a few blocks down from our hotel, west of the Plaza de Armas, across from the San Pedro Rail Station and the beautiful Iglesia de San Pedro.

We passed by twice before the smell of freshly baked bread compelled us across the street to discover this local treasure.

Once inside, our eyes were treated to a beautiful tapestry of colors, cuisines, and cultures. Dozens of varieties of cheese. Delicious-looking pastries. Tempting fresh fruits and vegetables. Fresh eggs lined up like dominoes, eager for purchase. And significant representation from Peru’s 3,000+ varieties of potato!

We slowly explored each aisle in awe of its savory options, listening contently to the vendors chatter in Quechua as they prepared their stalls and displayed their products for the day’s customers.

And then suddenly, without warning, we found ourselves in the “fresh meat” section of the market. Huge carcasses of un-refridgerated animals lay draped across the white tables. We tip-toed our way through the blood-spattered aisles, holding our breath from the intense, gamey smell.

As I bent down to tie my shoe, I was startled to find freshly-severed alpaca snouts a mere four inches from my face. I quickly tended to my shoe and shuffled my way past sheep brains and bulls’ heads to catch up with Justin, who was intentionally speeding through the section.

“Are your feet sticky?” I reluctantly asked as we made our way out of the makeshift butcher shop and on to the fast-food vendors at the back of the market. Justin nodded in disgust. We loudly squished our way past locals enjoying breakfasts of bread and eggs.

I couldn’t help but think of what a tangible reminder our nasty, sticky shoes would serve of our authentic encounter with Cusco’s local shopping scene that day.

Before heading out, we stopped to watch as colorful donuts were arranged artistically on carts and vibrant bouquets of flowers were prepared — a stark contrast to the more unpleasant sights we’d experienced in the meat section.

Still engulfed in this experience of Cusco’s daily life, we stopped to watch as a young girl danced playfully atop a park bench at the market’s east end.

But the best part about our walk through the Mercado Central?

There wasn’t another tourist in sight.

Just hours after arriving in Cusco, we received our first solicitation.

No, no, it wasn’t for drugs … it wasn’t even for sex. Instead, it was for something a bit more benign, but equally ubiquitous …

“Pisco sour, Pisco sour! Eat here — I’ll give you free Pisco Sour!”

Intrigued, but unconvinced, we walked on to the next restaurant … “Eat here, not there — I’ll give you two free Pisco Sours!“

The next place, a mere sign: “All-you-can drink Pisco Sour, 5:00-7:00 pm!”

We glanced at our watch: it was 5:15. Sold.

Even if you know very little about Peru, you’re likely to have heard of its affinity for the Pisco Sour.

Pisco, a grape brandy hailing from the vineyards of the southern Peruvian desert, is actually the country’s national drink, though it’s more famously known in its rougher form, the Pisco Sour.

It’s history traces back to the early-1900s presence of Europeans in Peru , home-sick for their traditional whisky sour. They used the already popular Peruvian brandy, Pisco, kicked it up a notch by adding lime juice, sugar, ice, and egg whites to make it frothy, and proclaimed it Pisco Sour.

Pisco is so closely tied to Peruvian culture and heritage, that on the first Saturday of February, they celebrate the national Pisco Sour Day. You can imagine it’s quite the party.

But this popular little drink isn’t all about celebration; in fact, it’s actually caused quite a controversy.

Peru and Chile, its neighbor to the south, have a long-running dispute over the origin and ownership of the drink. Chile produces a similar drink, also called the Pisco Sour, developed from their own Pisco brandy, and they claim they were the first to develop it. In fact, Chile has traditionally exported more Pisco than Peru, although Peru has finally surpassed them in recent years. The dispute probably isn’t aided by the fact that quite a bit of tension between the two nations remains from the 19th Century War of the Pacific, pitting Chile against Peru and Bolivia.

In 2007, the drink was attributed as part of the Peruvian national heritage … but even this has not settled the rift between the two countries.

Don’t think the dispute really runs that deep?

Try reading the fine print on your Customs card as you enter the country. Along the lines that forbid you from smuggling in chemical weapons, drugs, and other criminal acts, it also forbids you to bring anything ”foreign” going by the name of Pisco into the country. Talk about a serious offense. (Worth noting: As Justin observed, this restriction does not appear to be limited to just beverages … so if you plan on traveling to Peru with your young son, Pisco, you might just want to leave him at home).

So the next time you’re in Peru and you find yourself craving raw eggs with a hint of lime, make sure you take advantage of all the opportunities for free Pisco Sours. And although you’ll no doubt soon be slightly buzzed, please try to remember, you’re drinking a very important — and serious — part of Peruvian history.

Because there is so much to do and see in Cusco, it is tempting to plan a very full itinerary. Be careful, though, not to pack your schedule too full as the altitude will definitely slow you down if you have not allowed ample time to acclimatize (we recommend at least three days). Although many people report nausea, headaches, and fatigue as symptoms of altitude sickness, the only symptom we encountered was significant shortness of breath during even the most moderate of physical activity.

You may also want to consider making your first stop the Oficina Ejecutiva del Comite (Av El Sol 103) to purchase Cusco’s Boleto Turistico, the official tourism ticket that will get you passage into 16 of the area’s main attractions, including the ruins at Saqsayhuaman and Ollantaytambo. If you plan to visit more than one of these sites, it’s definitely a good value. Be prepared to pay for your ticket in cash.

Although the Boleto Turistico will get you admittance into many of the ruin sites, it will not get you into any ofCusco’s religious sites. For that, you need another ticket, specific to these sites. If you plan to visit more than one of the cathedrals or the Museo de Arte Religioso, it’s worth buying the ticket. If not, just purchase a ticket for that individual site. You can purchase the full religious ticket at La Catedral, the city’s main cathedral on the Plaza de Armas. Note: the full religious ticket does not include admittance to every religious site in Cusco, such as some of the monasteries.

Here are just a few sites we recommend visiting while in Cusco:

Plaza de Armas: The city’s beautiful main square, surrounded by several cathedrals, famed restaurants, tourist shops, and remnants of Inca walls. Visitors and locals can stroll the Plaza’s park, rest on its benches, and watch children and pigeons play in the center fountain. Tourists, beware – you will be approached by street vendors selling a variety of crafts, ranging from paintings to crocheted llama finger puppets.

Cusco's Plaza de Armas

Plaza San Francisco and Catedral de San Francisco: This church is of the Franciscan order, and contains a variety of paintings, including many depicting the life of St. Francis of Assisi. The church lies at the Plaza San Francisco, about three blocks from the Plaza de Armas and is a great place for locals to socialize and relax.

Locals gather to watch a street performer in Cusco's Plaza de San Francisco

La Compañia: This church was built by the Jesuits to be the grandest church in Cusco, but the bishop insisted it should not surpass La Catedral. Like many other colonial religious structures, it was built on top of an Inca temple, thetemple of Huayna Capac. It has an ornate baroque façade that rivals any in the city.

Convento and Bascilica de la Merced: This is known as Cusco’s third most important church and lies about two blocks from the Plaza de Armas. It was rebuilt after the 1650 earthquake. The church contains the remains of Gonzalo Pizarro, the half-brother of Francisco.

La Catedral: The main cathedral in Cusco. It was built by the Spanish on the Inca palace of Viraconcha Inca. It is divided into three different cathedrals or chapels: Iglesia del Triunfo on the right, the main cathedral in the center, and Iglesia de jesus Maria to the left. The cathedral could also pose as an art gallery as it houses over 300 paintings from the famed Cusco school. Much of the artwork and décor inside the cathedral was created by Quechuas who integrated elements of Andean beliefs into the images depicting Christian theology. An example of this is Quechuan artist Marcos Zapata’s The Last Supper, a painting that depicts Jesus with his disciples feasting on Chica, an Andean fermented corn beer, and Cuy, the Peruvian delicacy of guinea pig. For a small fee, you can hire a private tour guide as you enter the cathedral.

Cusco's La Catedral at the Plaza de Armas

Inca walls: Lining many narrow pedestrian streets, including the alley of Loreto, these Inca walls form the foundations of modern buildings. You can stroll down the alley, sliding your hand along these stones chiseled by Inca laborers.

12-sided stone: This stone makes up part of the exterior to the Museo de Arte Religioso, which was once an Inca fortress. The stone is fascinating, but is always crowded with local children and youth who are eager to point out the stone and explain its history to you, for a small tip, of course.

Monasterio and Iglesia de Santo Domingo: This church and monastery were built upon the 15^th Century Inca temple of Qorikancha, a revered and ornate Inca holy-site that was literally lined in gold. When the conquistadors arrived, they soon confiscated and melted down all of the gold at this revered temple. All that remains of the Inca temple today is some of its stonework, combined with the colonial structures, proving yet another example of the blending of these two cultures and the ever-present reminder ofCusco’s tumultuous past. Today it belongs to the Dominicans. Portions of the church, including its doorway, are in Moorish style, a recurring theme in Spanish colonial architecture, resulting from centuries of Moorish rule in Spain.

Monesterio de Santo Domingo

Plaza San Blas: Just a brief uphill walk from the 12-sided stone lies the barrio, or neighborhood, of San Blas. The small Plaza boasts a cathedral and a nice fountain with some benches to relax. To the right of the plaza, you can find small artisan shops selling local handicrafts. We recommend this place as best for purchasing the popular Peruvian carved guards that are popular with both artisans and tourists.

Plaza San Blas

Museo Inka: This museum boasting Inca artifacts including jewelry, pottery, textiles, and even mummies, lies a block northeast of the Plaza de Armas Like many buildings in the area, it was built on an Inca-constructed building. This place was billed as a don’t-miss, but, unfortunately we missed it! Judging from the glowing reviews it received throughout the rest of our trip, foregoing a visit to this museum was an unfortunate omission.

Walk to the ruins of Saqsayhuaman: If you’re up for a short walk, these ruins are about a half an hour uphill from the center of Cusco. We’ll detail these ruins further in a later post focusing solely on Inca ruins. But, these ruins, if they still remained as their full size, would likely rival Machu Picchu in fame and grandeur. The ruins once served an important role as both a religious and military site.Cusco was designed to be in the shape of a puma, and Saqsayhuaman represents the head of the puma. You can catch some great views of all of Cusco from the top.

Saqsayhuaman

Paddy’s Pub: After a long day of sight-seeing, relax over a beer at Paddy’s, the highest Irish pub in the world. We made friends with an Irish couple there, Maureen and Shamus, who were looking for a taste of home. The ambiance makes it easy to forget you’re inSouth America — not that you’ll want to!

Paddy's Pub, around the corner from Cusco's Plaza de Armas

Finally, be sure to take some time just to enjoy Cusco. No, by that I do not mean checking off each of the places listed above. Rather, I mean take some time to just sit in a local cafe overlooking the Plaza de Armas and watch the cars and people pass by. Make friends with locals and others visiting the area. Take time to let Cusco soak in.

Its cobblestone streets, colonial architecture, community plazas, myriad museums, bustling local markets, Andean culture, and close proximity to spectacular Inca ruins make Cusco a must-see for any visitor to Peru. In fact, the city is known as Peru’s tourism capital for the throngs of visitors who flock to the region from around the world every year to discover its fascinating history and absorb its rich culture – a blend of colonial Spanish influence and ancient Andean traditions.

Once considered the heart of the Inca Empire, this city of more than 300,000 rests at an altitude of 3350 meters (about 11,000 ft.) between foreboding Andean peaks in the Sacred Valley of the Rio Urubamba. It is the oldest continuously inhabited city in South America, and a significant amount of the population speaks Quechua, the language that was also spoken by the Incas, though most people speak Spanish as well.

Although Cusco usually serves as the starting point for visitors continuing on to Machu Picchu or acclimatizing before trekking the Inca Trail, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is worthy of a visit all on its own. It serves an excellent example of a place that has established itself as a prominent tourist location, but has not lost its historical significance or local charm. You’ll certainly see your fair share of tourists swarming the town, but also you’ll be surrounded by locals wearing traditional clothing and buildings constructed from remnants of Inca-constructed walls. In fact, the city remains a collision between ancient and modern history, a blending of Spanish and indigenous cultures. For example, Catholic cathedrals and monasteries built atop demolished Inca temples and holy sites line the city’s main plazas. Many Andean Peruvians practice syncretism, a blending of Catholic theology with traditional Andean religious beliefs. The Inca ruins at Saqsayhuaman overlooking the city serve as a reminder of Spanish conquest as conquistadors removed a significant number of the granite blocks to build their own homes and buildings.

Inca walls line the alley of Loreto and other pedestrian walkways in Cusco

A Brief History of Cusco

To fully appreciate Cusco today, it is important to understand a bit of its magnificent and tragic history.

Cusco was founded by the first Inca, or “king,” Manco, and became the empire’s capital. Although the Inca civilization existed for several hundred years dating back to the 12^th Century, its greatest expansion occurred in the one hundred years preceding conquest by the invading Spanish conquistadors. Under Inca Pachacutec, the empire expanded its infrastructure and its geographic influence beyond Cusco to southern parts of the Andes near Lake Titicaca. Later, under his son and successor Tupac Yupanqui, the Incas expanded north into modern-day Ecuador and south deep into the region that is now Santiago, Chile.

The Incas began to experience internal conflict, however, when Inca Huayna Capac divided the empire between his two sons. Atahualpa was awarded jurisdiction over the northern portion of the empire, while Huascar was allocated the southern part. Unfortunately, the two brothers were not content to share power with one another. Their discord resulted in an empire-wide civil war that took a significant toll on the population. As a result, when the invading Spaniards arrived, the Incas found themselves more vulnerable to conquest.

A view of Cusco from atop the ruins at Saqsayhuaman

Francisco Pizzaro and the Spanish conquistadors arrived in Cusco in 1533 and established Manco Inca as a “puppet” ruler. This arrangement lasted only a few years, however, before Manco organized a rebellion against the Spanish. He was eventually forced to flee to the jungle city at Vilcabamba and the Spanish were able to re-claim Cusco. They soon shifted their focus from Cusco to the new capital: Lima.

In 1650 and 1950 devastating earthquakes rocked the city and continue to pose a looming threat throughout Peru. Throughout the country, the colonial structures built by the Spanish have not withstood the forces of these quakes nearly as well as the Inca structures have. As a result, many of the colonial buildings have been rebuilt and restored.

After learning about all the physical and emotional reminders of Spanish conquest that mark the streets of Cusco, you may be wondering if there is still a little bitterness existing among Cusco’s residents today toward the Spanish. We wondered this too, but weren’t quite sure how to ask it. After befriending a local woman named Claudia, we felt comfortable asking her. She hesitated, but finally replied, “Well, yes, of course there is still bitterness, if we are being honest. This Spanish church we stand in was built on top of an Inca temple that the Spanish destroyed. But what you also have to remember about Cusco is that so many of us are mestizo — a blending of Quechua and Spanish lineage, a blending of Quechua and Spanish culture. We are both. So even though there’s bitterness, it’s not as simple as one might think.”

Residents of Cusco today celebrate their Quechua heritage through music and dance at a local folk festival and parade.