Everyone told us not to go.
It’s too difficult to get around. Transportation is horrible. The military is everywhere. The smog is suffocating. It’s dangerous and dirty. There’s not really anything to see.
I’m so glad we didn’t listen.
I would feel cheated if we had skipped out on Lima, as everyone seemed to think we should.
I believe to skip a destination simply because it’s a little bit dirty, uncomfortable, or involves some risk is an unfortunate way to travel. Of course, there will be times where certain danger causes you to bypass a destination. There are times when the potential risks outweigh the benefits. But to simply miss out on an incredible place because there are parts of it that are dangerous (parts you will likely never get close to, I might add), or because it is not as clean as you are accustomed to, is to miss out on the vast majority of this incredible world. And I’m just not content to do that.
I travel because I want to see life as it is authentically lived outside of the fabricated bubble that is American suburbia. I travel because I want to understand the world as best I can without fast forwarding through the bad parts as if they did not exist. I travel because I want to be challenged and changed and challenged to affect change. But that’s just me.
And so to visit Peru and avoid Lima simply for the reasons our friends had suggested would have been too easy; it would have been cheating. And I’m glad we didn’t cheat. Although we were only in Lima for two days, it was well worth the stop and is worthy of a return trip one day. As it turns out, we didn’t get robbed, abducted, lost, shot, decapitated, or suffocated by smog after all.
Here are just a few of the reasons why I’m glad we didn’t skip Lima and why you shouldn’t either:
La Catedral
The supposed remains of Lima’s founder (conquerer?), conquistador Francisco Pizzaro lie within the chapel of this spectacular cathedral. This gorgeous example of colonial architecture has been rebuilt several times since the 16th Century due to the high incidence of earthquakes in Peru.
San Francisco
This was one of the more spectacular sights we saw in all of Peru (not nearly as impressive as Machu Picchu, of course!). This incredible complex includes a cathedral, a convent, and two chapels — El Milagro and La Soledad. Like La Catedral, this structure was also damaged and destroyed by devastating earthquakes on multiple occasions. As a result, it was not completed until 1672. The cathedral’s facade is an example of 17th Century Baroque architecture. Cloisters in the convent are decorated with beautiful blue tiles from Seville. The inside of the church is absolutely stunning. Inside the church you will also find a library consisting of books, Bibles, and hymnals dating back into the 1500s! The famous Peruvian painting of the Last Supper is housed in the dining hall and depicts Jesus and his disciples enjoying guinea pig and drinking Chicha, an Inca corn beer. The most exciting part of this complex, however, is the Catacombs below. The catacombs were used as a cemetery during the Colonial period and tens of thousands were buried here. The bones have been professionally sorted and organized. You can view an entire room full of skulls. Touring hours for the convent and museum are from 9:00 am - 5:45 pm daily.
Plaza Mayor
This is Lima’s historic city center. It was here that Francisco Pizarro founded Lima. It used to host bullfights and executions, particularly during the Spanish Inquisition. Notably, the Plaza witnessed the declaration of Peru’s independence from Spain in 1821. There have been numerous other historical events and demonstrations held in the Plaza. In the center stands a large bronze fountain, which was commissioned in 1650.
Santo Domingo
This is a Dominican church that features a beautiful convent with a courtyard of cloisters lined with beautiful mosaic tiles from Seville, some of the best preserved in all of Lima. The church also features cedar choir stalls that are ornately carved and an alter with relics of Dominican Peruvians having attained sainthood.
Miraflores
We already told you about Miraflores’s spectacular Park of Love along the Pacific coast, but there is much more to enjoy in this, one of 40+ districts in Lima. Take a stroll through El Parque de Kennedy, or Kennedy Park, named for U.S. President John F. Kennedy. And, before you leave, grab a pizza and a beer along the famous “Pizza Street” next to Park Kennedy.
Here are a few steps to take before you go that will make your experience in Lima much more pleasant:
Book your lodging in advance. Pick a convenient location like Central Lima or Miraflores that will allow you options if you want to walk to sights or restaurants nearby.
Arrange to have someone from your hotel pick you up at the airport, bus station, or wherever you will be arriving from. This is a huge city. Save yourself time and stress and just get a ride!
Book a guided tour of the city. Our friends were not far off when they warned that navigating the city’s transportation jungle is nearly impossible. We don’t always advocate for taking guided tours, but in the case of Lima, the tour allowed us to relax and just take in the history and the sights without having to worry about any other factors. These tours don’t have to be huge bus tours. We arranged a private tour and driver for less than $90 USD a day for the two of us.
Enjoy your time in Lima or wherever else people tell you not to go!
What is one city you were advised not to visit but are so glad you did?




What a great guide to Lima! Love the church courtyard! We were actually advised (don’t laugh!) not to go to West Philly to see this “Love Letter” graffiti exhibit I was really excited about. Turns out everything was (of course) fine, and the artwork was definitely worth it. Just like anywhere, it’s good to be cautious of your surroundings and go with gut instinct.
Had a friend who taught English in Peru, said that though some parts are a tad bit grungy, it’s still a magical place. No reason not to visit a city because it’s a little worn — and look at that architecture!
I so relate to this!! I’m always being told to skip cities, and I don’t know why. Sometimes it’s nice to have more restaurants to choose from, etc. I recently just did a ten-day trip, three days in a city, seven in paradise. Panama City was a weird little expat city that was cool in its own right. More importantly, I’d never been! And I wanted to see something new!
I’ve never been to any of South America, but Lima certainly looks like it was worth your visit 🙂
I’ve heard nothing but negative reports of Lima so thanks for showing another side to the city! I think a country’s capital city has to say something about a country that’s worth discovering for a traveller. Except perhaps Canberra in Australia…
My wife has decided next year is Peru, so I am really enjoying reading stuff like this. Lima sounds interesting, especially the pizza street (I am a simple man sometimes).
Auckland was the place that people advised we get out of right away. And yet we quite enjoyed it. New Zealand is great, but very outdoorsy. It was nice to be in a city.
I like Lima! It’s certainly a bit more run down than its South American counterparts, but I like that about it. Also, they have some great food! 😀
I really want to go to Peru next year, so my husband sent me this link (he’s Andrew up there in the comments) and I’m glad to get some ideas for spending time in Lima. As much as I want to see Machu Picchu and other parts of Peru, I definitely want to explore Lima a little.
That’s lovely, it would definitely be a must-stop the first time I go to Peru!
I stayed in Miraflores for a week and while I didn’t love it they do have a great mercado with awesome ceviche - in fact the food in Lima is awesome.
I’m so glad we ended up spending extra time in Lima too - and we stayed in Miraflores where I’m sure most people would say to avoid because it’s so modern/NorthAmerican/whatever. We had an awesome time and John got to meet his favourite musician, Tom Araya randomly…definitely a highlight city of our South America trip.
We loved Lima as well, and have a photo gallery from our time there coming soon! We only spent two days in the city, on the way in and out of Iquitos for our Amazon river cruise, but thought it was truly a beautiful historic city.
One of my best friends is from Lima and I don’t think we would speak to me again if I were to go to Peru and skip his hometown, haha. And obviously I would be wrong to do so, with so many pretty sights!
[…] Should we hike the Inca trail? What can we do in Cusco while we adjust to the altitude? Are there any other Inca ruins we should check out? What’s there to do at Lake Titicaca? Arequipa, where’s that? Will we regret not going to the Amazon? Should we see the condors at Colca Canyon? Can we get away with just skipping out on Lima? […]
Yes! I loved Lima but didn’t meet many other people who did. My advice? Stay in Miraflores or Barranco, not downtown. Couchsurfing is a great way to experience Lima as well. Also try anticucho while you’re there!
[…] again, I am so glad I chose to ignore the travel advice of my friends and colleagues. They had been wrong before, and they were wrong again in the case of Baltimore. Although there are definitely some rough parts […]
Istanbul. Non-travelers told us they’d never go there. (Too afraid. Many claimed religious reasons.) I was glad we did. They don’t know what they’re missing!
I definitely see your reasons 🙂 I love all those churches and parks so next year finally will visit Lima 🙂 And I would add another reason why to - friends (I have some there:))
I think San Francisco was the most interesting attraction in Lima. The catacombs were fascinating and the hallways were perfect for my 5’2′ frame. It’s one of the few times that I enjoy being short.